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Health Concerns
There are numerous potential health concerns with a bearded dragon. Some of these are unavoidable: relocation stress, shedding, impaction, dehydration, parasites, hunger strikes, laying eggs, and sunken fat pads. Although you can take steps to avoid impaction, dehydration, and parasites, it is highly likely that you will face all of these issues at some point with your dragon. Other health concerns are more serious but can be avoided with proper care, such as upper respiratory infections, tail/mouth rot, numerous eye issues, and metabolic bone disease. Some issues, like small cuts and scrapes, need nothing more than basic first aid care. Another set of health concerns are beyond your control, and may or may not be manageable, such as adenovirus, egg binding, or cancer. Finally, there is always the mystery of brumation to tackle. As a general rule, a good way to assess your dragon’s health is to regularly measure and weigh your dragon – significant weight loss is often a sign of illness. Another regular sign of feeling unwell is black bearding for a long period of time. If your dragon is active and eating, he may just be bearding because he wants to, but if he is lethargic and very dark, it can be a sign that something is bothering him. I am going to give a brief overview of these topics, but you should always consult the online bearded dragon community and/or a veterinarian anytime that you are concerned about the health of your dragon. Spend time before getting your bearded dragon locating the nearest reputable veterinarian who has experience with exotic reptiles. Common Behaviors and Concerns Relocation Stress: Your dragon will invariably go through relocation stress to some degree upon arriving at your home, and again if you change the vivarium significantly, move him/her to a new vivarium, change the room he/she is kept in, or move to a new home. This is not typically a life-threatening ailment but can be perplexing to a new owner. A newly relocated dragon will typically have stress marks (pictured below), decreased appetite, and may be skittish for some time. The best way to help your dragon get over relocation stress is to handle your new dragon minimally in the first one to two weeks, keeping it only to bath time. If your dragon is particularly scared of you, you can put a shirt that you have worn in the vivarium with it. This will acclimate your dragon to your scent. Avoid introducing a hide to the vivarium so that your dragon doesn’t hide instead of adjusting to its new surroundings. Don’t be surprised if your dragon eats little to nothing for several days to two weeks – they will get over it. If it lasts much longer than two weeks, or your dragon seems inactive, extremely skinny, and/or not alert, you should consult your veterinarian. Shedding: Your dragon will shed. This is how they grow. As babies, they will shed quite frequently. As they age, the shedding will slow and become more “patchy.” This is all perfectly normal. A shedding dragon may become irritable and have reduced appetite. Whatever you do, do not assist with the shedding. The best thing you can do to help your dragon shed is bathing it more frequently. Daily baths will go a long way to helping a shed. If your dragon has a particularly stubborn shed, you may gently rub the shed with a baby toothbrush. If your dragon has retained shed around the toes or tail, consult a veterinarian, as this can cut off circulation and cause infection or death to the tissue. Dehydration: If you offer regular baths, your dragon should not become dehydrated too often. However, it can still occur. Your dragon’s skin will stay “tented” if pinched when it is dehydrated. It will also have decreased appetite, sunken fat pads on the head, and/or be lethargic. Treat dehydration with extra baths and oral water by dripping water on its nose, or through a syringe directly into its mouth. Whenever you syringe feed a dragon, take care to gently push on the plunger – you don’t want to send water or food into your dragon’s lungs. Plenty of greens, hornworms, and even reptile electrolytes available online can help prevent dehydration. Hunger Strikes: You dragon may occasionally decide he/she isn’t hungry. It’s nothing to worry about – when it’s ready, it will eat. If your dragon isn’t eating and seems to be lethargic and/or is losing weight, contact your veterinarian. Brumation: ' Brumation is the reptile equivalent of hibernation. Many dragons brumate, although all brumations are a bit different in length and degree. See Appendix B for links about brumation. Head, Mouth, and Respiratory '''Upper Respiratory Infection (“URI”): '''If your dragon is lethargic, has reduced appetite, and makes a clicking/whistling sound while breathing, it may have a URI. This can be caused by high humidity or aspirated food or water. Seek a veterinarian in this situation – your dragon will likely need antibiotics. Again, probiotics will help your dragon rebound from the medication. Increased night time temperatures will also help your dragon recover. 'Mouth Rot: 'If the tissue of the tail or mouth is turning black and appears infected, this may be tail or mouth rot. Both are life-threatening conditions. Mouth rot requires meticulous care, while tail rot will typically require amputation. Seek a veterinarian immediately if you suspect that your dragon has either tail or mouth rot. 'Eye Issues: '''Eye issues such as photokeratoconjunctivitis typically occur due to improper UVB lighting or improper substrate. Your dragon will have one or more of the following symptoms – regularly closed eyes during the day, pus or other discharge from the eye, swelling/inflammation, and crustiness around the eye. Seek veterinary care if you see any of these symptoms. Skin and Nails '''Tail Rot: Yellow Fungus: Stuck Shed: Cuts/Scrapes:'' These will occur from time to time. To treat them, soak the injury in a solution of betadine in water. This solution should look like weak tea. ''Never use hydrogen peroxide, as it kills healthy flesh as well as infection. Soak the injury in the betadine for a few minutes several times a day for a few days. You can also apply Neosporin to the wound. Do not use Neosporin with pain relief.' '''Otherwise, these types of injuries should not pose any threat to your dragon, and will heal on their own. If a cut or scrape appears to be seriously infected, seek a veterinarian. Internal Problems '''Impaction: '''This is when your dragon has a blockage in his intestinal tract. Most dragons experience this from time to time. You will notice that your dragon is irritable, has a decreased appetite, and has not defecated for a longer than usual period. A baby dragon typically defecates once or twice a day. As your dragon gets towards adulthood, this can decrease to every few days to once a week. You can treat this with warmer and deeper than usual baths, increased time outside the vivarium getting exercise, or belly rubs. If it is a more serious impaction than this, you can use canned unspiced pumpkin, baby food squash, unsweetened applesauce, or olive oil. Feed a small quantity of any of these to your dragon to help lubricate his digestive tract. A very serious impaction can cause paralysis of the hindquarters. If you see this occur, seek a veterinarian immediately. 'Parasites: There are several common parasites in bearded dragons, but the two most common are pinworms and coccidia. If your dragon is lethargic, has decreased appetite, isn’t growing well, and/or has extremely smelly stools, contact your veterinarian about a fecal test immediately. Parasites can be treated with medication as prescribed by your vet. Never medicate a dragon for parasites without first confirming that the fecal sample contained parasites. Medications can be harsh on a bearded dragon’s system, and if he/she takes meds without needing them, you are unnecessarily stressing your dragon’s system. If you have been prescribed medication, you should supplement it with probiotics. Probiotics help restore good gut flora and will help your dragon get its appetite and energy back sooner. You can use soy yogurt or reptile probiotics available online. 'Metabolic Bone Disease (“MBD”): '''MBD is perhaps the most devastating illness that your dragon can develop. It is also almost entirely avoidable with proper UVB and calcium supplementation. MBD is a form of advanced calcium deficiency. Typically, the first signs will be shaking of the limbs and fingers, followed by and under or overbite, curvature of the spine, tail, or other bones, and decreased coordination. Sometimes other psychological conditions also occur. If you suspect that your dragon is developing MBD, seek out a veterinarian immediately. Any damage to bones due to MBD is irreversible, but if caught early, you can halt the progress of the disease. Typically, treatment involves the use of liquid calcium to boost the body’s calcium levels to prevent any further damage. ''If you see the signs of MBD developing in your dragon, seek help immediately. A dragon with significant damage due to MBD can live a good life, but will always be handicapped. '''Atadenovirus (“ADV”): Atadenovirus, often called adenovirus, is a highly contagious viral disease that afflicts bearded dragons. Unfortunately, it has become fairly common in the population. If a baby is born with the virus, they typically are underweight and do not grow as quickly as other dragons. Many of these dragons die within the first 90 days of life. Dragons that survive may be susceptible to other infections, have damage to the intestines and liver, remain underweight, and retain fluid in the belly or beard. It also spreads easily from dragon to dragon. If you suspect your dragon to have adenovirus, keep it away from all other dragons, and if you have more than one, do not let it share any space in or out of the tank with your other dragons. It is vital that you seek out veterinary care if you suspect your dragon has adenovirus. See the link in Appendix B for more information concerning adenovirus. Fatty Liver Disease (hepatic lipidosis): Other Hunger Strikes: '''You dragon may occasionally decide he/she isn’t hungry. It’s nothing to worry about – when it’s ready, it will eat. If your dragon isn’t eating and seems to be lethargic and/or is losing weight, contact your veterinarian. '''Egg Laying: Female dragons can lay infertile eggs even if she has never mated. Please see the link on laying in Appendix B for more information. Egg binding: '''Egg-binding occurs when a female bearded dragon cannot lay her eggs. This can occur with both fertilized and unfertilized eggs. Typical symptoms are inactivity and lethargy, as well as further swelling of the abdomen. It is important that when a dragon displays egg-laying behavior that you provide an adequate lay box. If not, she may choose not to lay the eggs, which can cause egg binding. You can help prevent egg-binding by providing proper calcium supplementation. If your dragon is egg bound, she may require surgery, as necrotic eggs can be deadly for your dragon. Please seek veterinary care if you suspect your dragon to be egg-bound. '''Cancer: This would be diagnosed by your vet. Besides visible growths, there could be many (or no) signs that your dragon has cancer. Much as in humans and most other animals, it may or may not be treatable. Category:Health